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Tel: USA & Canada: 1-888-372-5842 |
From Mexico : 01 800 6542333 |
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ISLA HOLBOX AS A TOURIST DESTINATION |
Holbox, Mexico is a small, isolated island getaway, and that is its strategic advantage. My wife and I spent two nights there, and this description will take you through what we consider to be its strong and weak points as a tourist destination.
Distinct is a word we think describes Isla Holbox. You can search for many small islands claiming to be a haven for people seeking peace and quiet, and they might all have good food, music, sand, and pretty water – the intrinsic qualities in a beach tourist destination. Isla Holbox has these qualities, yet what makes it distinct is its geographical location. Where it is has everything to do with what it has.
If you have a map of the Yucatan Peninsula available, take a look at it. If not, click_here. Notice that it has a western, northern and eastern coastline. The Gulf of Mexico’s waves splash the beaches of the western and northern coastline, while the eastern coastline is Caribbean, forming the famous Mayan Riviera. The two different waters meet at the northern tip of this large peninsula, where we find Isla Holbox nestled in comfortably, far off the beaten path.
We say Isla Holbox is distinct because it is off the beaten path, and frankly, it is. In fact, the nearest city (Cancún) is three hours away, and that is a city only because its population has exploded in the past thirty years (an understatement). The entire Yucatan Peninsula is tropical, and about 10% of its vegetation cannot be found elsewhere on earth. There is no form of mass transit, which helps keep it absent from the popular tourist map. The journey to the island from Cancún will prove just how far removed it is. You can get there a number of ways, maybe_by booking a private shuttle from the Cancún airport or by taking the public bus from the Cancún terminal to the ferry dock in Chiquilá. This is what we did, and it is very easy and affordable. Along the way you cannot help but notice that the large apartment buildings slowly fade into small houses with palm-thatched roofs. Busy boulevards become long, straight, vacant highways with jungle vegetation draping over the edges, effectively sealing you off from all your past experiences. Signs of heavy population disappear to reveal small town folk who have long adapted to living in the tropics. The bus ride took us a little under three hours, leaving from the downtown terminal in Cancún.The ticket price was $74 pesos ($7.03 USD or, an easier way to
approximate pesos to dollars, is to divide by ten), and this will probably fluctuate. The bus does not have a bathroom, but it does make a rest-stop halfway through.
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In the end it leaves you at a roundabout in Chiquilá, not 100 yd from the ferry, so you will not have far to walk. Head down the dock and there you will find the ferry ticket booth run by the 9 Hermanos (Brothers) Company. We bought tickets for $45 pesos each ($4.27 USD). The ferry leaves about every hour and it is about a half hour ride across Yalahau Lagoon.
Approaching the island we noticed it was long (42 km, or 26.1 mi, W to E) and the village is quite small – leaving much to explore beyond the settlement. The very first impression we had was that the palm-tree lined road from the dock leading straight into town had absolutely no cars on it. Instead, the main form of transportation scampered about the sand: golf carts. They can be seen everywhere, in all shapes and lengths, from your average 4-seater to the stretch 8 person ride; the yellow ones are taxis, ready to take you anywhere you wish.
My wife and I opted to walk, in order to get a better look at things and soak in the initial impressions. There are no paved surfaces, and the villagers prefer it that way. Rather, the narrow roads are covered with a fine sand. Walking about the streets we were impressed with the quaint atmosphere, revealed partly in the simple, wooden architecture of the buildings burrowed in the sand; yet, the bright painted colors hinted at a flare, at an effort to embrace an island culture. The villagers and visitors (from many different nations) drove and walked by us, in and out of the buildings, going about their day. Most are barefoot – that is just how things are on Holbox.
The main plaza (“downtown” Holbox) has a huge amphitheater and fantastic playground equipment for children. The amphitheater plays host to many music groups every week or so throughout the tourist season. It is well lighted at night and 100% safe all the time. Around this plaza is the main tourist beat, with some of the more recognizable restaurants and hotels. Throughout our stay we ate at a few of the restaurants, and we will get to that part in a bit.
Continuing our walk past the main plaza, in a couple more small blocks we arrived at the beach front. Considering this part of the island is very skinny, you can walk from dock to beachfront in less than twenty minutes. The village’s beachfront has a pier, a sort of small, sand-covered plaza for concerts and dancing, and the fishermen’s boats line the shore. There is a lot to say about the beach, and, once again, we will get to that later. Our walk through the town in the midday heat had left us thirsty and eager to find our hotel.k
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One thing about Isla Holbox is that it has no shortage of small hotels scattered throughout the village or around the island. It has everything from 1 to 4 star hotels, beachfront or in the village, and even super-ecological (alternative tourism) choices. Although we spotted some good-looking hotels around the island, we cannot elaborate on them because we only stayed in one: Hotel Wayak.
After our inspection of the waterfront we did not have far to go to get to our hotel, because of its prime location right across from the beachfront plaza – a one minute (or less) walk to the beach. Hotel Wayak has palm-thatched roofs, hammocks in the shade, and an instant, relaxed atmosphere. We checked into room # 2, a spacious, first-floor room with two double-beds and a full bathroom. Its decoration is simple yet quite effective. Creative shell fixtures hang from the ceiling and line the walls – even the shower head is a large conch shell with holes poked in it! By lying on the comfortable bed (not too firm, not too soft) you can admire a wonderful wooden ceiling, which tops off the peculiar effect. The owner, Rodolfo Rivas, is a friendly gentleman and sat down with us to answer any questions we had. He has an intimate knowledge of the island and would welcome any calls. My wife and I were warmly accepted at Wayak and slept soundly in a comfortable and clean room. For these reasons we recommend it.
After acquainting ourselves with the hotel, we went for a bite to eat. Hotel Wayak is one block from the main plaza, and it is not difficult to find delicious restaurants around and apart from the main area. The first place we ate in was “La Isla del Encuentro,” a small restaurant on the east side of the plaza, behind the amphitheater. We both had fish, and it was entirely satisfactory. As mentioned earlier, the area around the plaza is where you will find the more touristy restaurants, so you can expect a more touristy price. The prices are not outrageous, but a bit more than if you were to eat in a place that caters to locals. The tourist restaurants are easy to find, delicious, and, although a little more expensive, with the extra cost you get guaranteed service. Throughout our stay we had tacos for dinner at small stands around the plaza, breakfast the next day at a restaurant close to the main square and lunch (with leftovers for dinner) at “Restaurante & Pizzeria Edelyn”: all 100% satisfying. Expect to pay around $100 to $200 pesos ($9.49 to $18.99 USD) for two people at one of those restaurants.
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After our lunch the first day, we decided to hit the beach. To say that the beaches within walking distance of the village are 100% virgin is not quite correct, but nearly. ‘Almost virgin’ is how we would put it. Some people are there, but not many. The fishermen’s boats are anchored in the sand. Rustic buildings that blend into the island vegetation are present. But there is a huge expanse of beach area, and it is beautiful. You can rent a golf cart and drive to a beach where there is not another soul. That is what we did our second day there. The golf cart rental was $100 pesos ($9.49 USD) for one hour, or you can get as many hours as you wish for a negotiated price. We drove out to the western edge of the island (not far) and got a good look at beautiful water and a deserted beach. We passed some ecological hotels along the way, and they were building some other hotels near the water, but for the most part we were completely alone. To the east of town, unfortunately, some folks are building hotels right on the sand and even out in the water! This interrupts walking down the beach, but if is far enough away from the village to not be a nuisance to most of the visitors.
As mentioned earlier, the water is amazing. It is a mixture of the Gulf and Caribbean, so it is not entirely transparent, but it is enough to still be breathtaking. Especially when observing how both twilights unveil nature’s way of saying ‘welcome.’ The sunrise finds the fishermen prepping their boats for the daily run, when they will catch fish that you will probably eat for lunch or dinner that same day. And the sunset out over the water is a beacon for those who like (or want) to live in the moment. The surf is shallow and calm – just perfect for children. If you stay in accommodations along the beach you can read in the shade of your bungalow or palm-thatched cover, or maybe nap in your hammock. Our point is that the beach is beautiful, relatively empty (compared to Cancún) and huge. Now, if you are looking for a completely pristine beach, that is possible through some of Holbox’s distinctive tours.
To be honest, my wife and I did not go on any of Isla Holbox’s tours, but we feel Isla Holbox would not be such an attraction without them and are therefore worth mentioning here. The first and most distinctive is the whale shark tour. During the summer months whale sharks (known as the biggest fish in the world) pass within a short range of the island. Holbox natives can take you to swim with these gentle
giants. There are diving tours, fly fishing tours, snorkeling tours and more. You can take a boat tour of the entire island, or of different, nearby isles where the nature lovers can bird watch or soak in the sun on a truly virgin beach. The tours put the important finishing touch on a distinct island experience. You cannot find tours like these anywhere else.
My wife and I were lucky in our trip to Holbox. The first weekend in April – the weekend we went – they celebrate their Saint Holiday. The festival of San Pedro Gonzalez Thelmo brings a stage, live music, dancing and beer stands to the waterfront plaza. Villagers and tourists celebrate and dance here at night together beside the sea. It was so refreshing to see such joy on everyone’s face. Visitors danced with children, holding hands and turning in circles. Dogs chased each other kicking up sand and making everyone laugh. Festivals on the beach are unfortunately not that common, however live music can be heard from the main plaza nearly every week. Be sure to ask your hotel manager if they know of any festivals scheduled.
Just like any place you go, Holbox has what we consider to be a few drawbacks. But with the right preparation they will not be drawbacks at all. Number one, Isla Holbox does not have an ATM for international cards – so all you need to do is bring and budget your cash. Number two is the heat. It is the tropics, and the sun can burn. But there is plenty of shade and places to go during the hottest hours of the day. Number three is the mosquitoes. When you are not indoors, and not wearing repellant, they will find you. There are these tiny little guys that pack a mean bite. But there should be no drastic preoccupation here, this is nothing that repellant cannot take care of. And finally, number four is the price of the tours. They are a little expensive, so if you are on a budget you might just want to choose one or so. But from what we heard, the tours merit the price. As you can see, with some preparation Holbox can be that small island experience you were looking for. We feel that the pros far outweigh the cons. My wife and I had an outstanding vacation and hardly spent any money at all.
In closing, where Cancún is a polestar of constructed luxury, of beach vacation perfection, a sleepy fishing village replaced thirty years ago by a capitalist Mecca, Holbox still is that sleepy fishing village. It is a natural place for the travelers that go out of their way to get out of the way. Isla Holbox has found a balance between the tourists and the villagers. In fact, some of the travelers become villagers, having found their paradise they never want to leave. Be careful, you could be one of them.
My trip to Holbox, by: Cristopher Barrow D.
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